Lemon tarts with perfectly toasted whisps of meringue, a spring-colored line up of French macarons and a glistening golden breakfast pastry spread. These are just some of the delicious sights that you’re greeted with at Bouchon Bakery. I haven’t even mentioned the heavenly smells that come from the kitchen next door and continue to whet your appetite as you make your way from the bread baking in front to the buttery pastries browning in back.
To Chef Matthew, Chef Janine, Sarah and Deborah, thank you.
Led by Head Bread Baker, Chef
Matthew McDonald we were whisked behind the counter and into the bread-making
room where he explained the workings of the 16,000-pound deck oven. The steam
generator creates enough moisture that at times it travels next door and fogs
up the retail counter.
Bouchon Bakery not only provides
bread for Bouchon Bistro next door and The French Laundry further down the street,
a team will bake wholesale breads for shops in the Napa area. According to Chef
Matthew, to keep up with production the oven is constantly running and there is
always someone at the bakery working at every hour of the day.
When we entered the main kitchen,
the bakers were hard at work shaping boules for proofing. One side of the space
is devoted to breads and the other for pastries. Modest in size, the kitchen
makes use of every inch of square footage so no matter where we looked there were
sweets. Head Pastry Chef Janine Weissman explained that the bakery continues to
produce more every year and has yet to reach the ceiling on production.
The sheeter was being used for
croissant dough when we walked by. The machine rolls out the dough evenly and
keeps all the layers of butter and dough in tact so the final product is very
flaky. In front were huge slabs of butter that put my tiny 4-ounce blocks to
shame.
Croissant Perfection
What happens with a
less-than-perfect macaron? It becomes an “Oh No You Didn’t”, one of the treats
we had at the start of the day. By hand, each one is enrobed in chocolate and finished
with a sprinkling of sea salt. Once the chocolate has set, the treat is wrapped
in colored foil.
The sign in the kitchen reads
“Sense of Urgency”. Already tight quarters, we added 7 extra bodies to the
space that day and the bakery staff remained focused as ever, working their way
around us to get their tasks done.
We had a surprise that day as
Deborah Jones, the photographer for the Bouchon Bakery cookbook, happened to be on
site so she stopped by to shoot some of our visit. Watching her work was
fascinating. We didn’t even notice she was there most of the time as she
quietly maneuvered around us to get the best angles for her shots. Then she took
the time to autograph our favorite images in the book. We have been
so inspired by her photos that every week of baking we try and out-do ourselves
styling and photographing our food in creative ways.
Chef Matthew loads the belt with baguettes that he demonstrated how to shape. As if we weren’t already indulged enough that day, we all got to shape our own baguettes as well. More in part two of this post series.
We ended the day out on the patio
of Bouchon Bakery, chatting with Chef Matthew and autographing books. He signed
ours and we signed his.
That day we learned a lot about
the bakery and bread-making but the one thing that stuck with me was something
Chef Matthew said just before leaving. After spending a good part of his
afternoon with us, someone asked how long his day was, to which he replied “I
wish I could say I leave when I want but I have an obligation to my team and to
spend time with them. It is one of the things I love about what I do.” It is
satisfying to hear that behind the exquisitely-made pastries that fill the
cases and counters, the bakers have a real camaraderie through the love of
their craft. It makes tasting there treats that much sweeter.
Part 2: In Conversation with Pastry Chef Janine Weissman
Part 2: In Conversation with Pastry Chef Janine Weissman
Photography credit: Jenn Yee
It's so cool to visit establishments and take photos...thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteCarmen
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